The French Quarter is an unapologetic enigma, a living breathing paradox. To attempt to define these 13 blocks of Americana would be fruitless and pointless. The "Quarter" lives in the extreme and marks its arrival at a literal turn left - where the everyday metro street of Canal intersects with Bourbon Street, announcing your arrival immediately. It is world famous for welcoming Christianity's most solemn annual event with an ongoing party of raucous hedonism, where one can walk out of one of America's most famed Irish Pub and cross the street to find oneself in its most famed Voodoo shop.
Beloved for celebration yet haunted by tragedy, it's only fitting this historic district lives in constant peril,. Its very existence is dependent upon an aging maze of levees responsible for holding back the Gulf of Mexico, and every storm brings the possibility of absolute demise. For this reason that your journey should include a visit to the Lower Ninth Ward and Treme, where scars of Hurricane Katrina, still visible well even after a decade. See my post from June 1, 2017 for information on the 'Lower Nine' and Treme and how to support to rebuilding of these historic districts.
The French Quarter or the Vieux Carre (Old Square) is everyone's first stop in New Orleans - particularly Bourbon Street. Now, as many times that I have been to the Big Easy, I recommend going to Bourbon Street to experience that kind of debauchery....once. However, there is so much more to see not only in the French Quarter, but throughout this amazing city. Personally, I do not feel that the seven blocks of Bourbon Street between Canal and Orleans Streets is the true New Orleans, so take it all for what its worth. And note, I do not recommend any 'establishment' along this stretch of asphalt. The houses and buildings are classic, and always worth a good wander.
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| Jackson Square |
Get out and see the rest of the Quarter and beyond to the Marigny and the Bywater, Treme, the Warehouse District, Garden District, Irish Channel and Uptown. Enjoy this most unique of American cities.
Hotel Monteleone is known for their carousel bar, the Vieux Carre, Sazeracs and cool scene at the bar. We determined the bar makes one full turn every 18 minutes. It could be scary if you are there for over two hours, however! Great hotel too - an institution! 214 Royal @ Bienville
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| Sazerac is Required at the Carousel Bar |
Also - go across the street to Mr. B's for apps if you need food after drinking! A little pricey but ok if you stick with apps! 201 Royal Street
Napoleon House is another great old cocktail bar on the Canal Street end of Chartres. Pimm's Cup, Boulevardier, Sazerac, etc. The building is nearly 200 years old, and was originally built as a hopeful home to bring Napoleon Bonaparte to a new 'home' after his exile...the place has the usual... plus decent food. 500 Chartres @ St Louis
Cafe du Monde (beignets!) No one has an excuse NOT to go to Cafe Du Monde, mostly because it is open 24 hours a day. There are better beignets to be found (see below) but this place is an institution! 800 Decatur at the French Market
Cafe Beignet on Royal Street two blocks from Napoleon House - another good place - Beignets are lighter but location is smaller. 334 Royal @ Conti
Conti Street on the Canal side of the Quarter is known for great dive bars and some killer po'boys...
Killer Po'Boys on Conti Street not far from Cafe Beignet is crammed into the back room of dive bar Erin Rose. They are known for their delicious yet limited menu of po' boys - gulf shrimp seasoned with coriander + the pork belly flavored with rum are favorites. Small kitchen in the back of the bar. Typical New Orleans! 811 Conti near Bourbon
Sylvain is still my favorite restaurant in New Orleans since its opening in 2010 (I went in April 2011). Great food and cocktails and on a warm night, best to sit on the patio. Personally, I love posting up at the corner of the bar and watching the bartenders work their magic. They named a drink after me on my first trip but I don't remember it. 625 Chartres @ Jackson Square
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| Aptly named cocktails |
Central Grocery on Decatur Street boasts the Original Muffaletta sandwich. This may be true (the Muffaletta at Cochon Butcher is better). However, the store is pretty cool, so its good at least to look around and see what they got. 923 Decatur up the road from Cafe Du Monde.
Laffite's Blacksmith Shop Bar boasts of being the 'oldest structure used as a bar in the United States', sometime around 1723 to 1732 by some accounts. Was widely believed to be the base for the smuggling operation of the Lafitte Brothers. Anyway, they have strong drinks - and proper hurricanes (ask for no grenadine). 941 Bourbon @St Philip (away from the melee of Bourbon)
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| Laffite's in a deluge |
After a few of those hurricanes at Lafitte's and they kick you out at 3am, head to the Clover Grill for your true NOLA diner experience. The slogan "We love to fry, and it shows" is all you need to know. You may have to wait for a table at 3am - I did! Classic diner, abusive staff so get your order in and watch the chef crank through the tickets. 900 Bourbon @ Ursilines
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| 3:25am at Clover Grill |
If you aren't out quite THAT late, perhaps up at Port of Call, stop in at NOLA Po'Boys for a sandwich - 35 varieties of sandwiches at your disposal. 908 Bourbon, right next door to Clover Grill - and ony open until midnight.
Everyone talks about the fried chicken at Willie Mae's Scotch House (I have been there) and Dookie Chase (have not been here) in the Treme. Not sure what the big deal is about the former, and I am open to hear about Dookie Chase, as it is more legit restaurant.
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| The one-hour wait to get into Willie Mae's - feh... |
HOWEVER, for me, and fried chicken - I go to Coop's Place. The FC kicks a*s on the more famous Willie Mae's (so said a local). No one hour wait and there it is right in the Quarter. Order the fried chicken with a side of rabbit jambalaya, grab your Crystal hot sauce, and put a $5 in the juke box. The bartenders make a strong drink! 1109 Decatur @ Ursilines
Right next door is the polar opposite - Cane and Table which boasts 100 plus rums and if you talk it up a bit, you might get a sample or two. Same owners as Cure in Uptown and the cocktails are amazing, the Sazeracs are lethal. Food is great - get the deep fried pork ribs (with a glaze of Guyanese rum, papaya chutney, and sambal). That's right. Order this! 113 Decatur Street
The only restaurant (that I have found) that allows corkage is EAT New Orleans. Brunch is what it is about here, but for dinner, bring your best bottle from home and enjoy a great meal. Try 'The Trio' if you aren't sure what to get. 900 Dumaine @ Dauphine
Last and certainly not least is Port of Call on the Esplanade on the edge of the French Quarter. Burgers are dominant (come standard with a baked potato), steaks are good, and the cocktails lethal. Take your drinks to go, and head into the Quarter or down to Frenchmen Street (see section on the Marigny district). 838 Esplanade @ Dauphine
