An expert's guide to any trip to New Orleans, any time of year!
Tuesday, June 27, 2017
Monday, June 26, 2017
Uptown
Bar Frances is a great brunch spot on Freret Street - excellent wine list and Happy Hour. Food specials are enticing. 4525 Freret @ Cadiz
There are a few other places across the street that require a visit as well. Wayfare at 4510 Freret is a good option!
The Company Burger generates a lot of buzz in the City and rightly so...if you must have a burger, it is either here or Port of Call on the FQ/Marigny line. Good cocktails options and a Happy Hour from 3-6pm. 4600 Freret @ Cadiz
Mojo Coffee House has two locations, but when i stayed Uptown in 2016 I must have gone to the Uptown location about five times! Some of the best coffee in the City rivaled by French Truck on Magazine in the LGD. 4700 Freret @ Valence. (Other locations - flagship location LGD 1500 Magazine and at 931 Canal)
Cure has great cocktails and extremely knowledgeable bartenders and staff. Got to love a place with the 3-7 weekend Happy Hour, and the food and drink specials are worth checking out. Drinks are interestingly named as well. Cure is one of two great NOLA spots in the same restaurant group including Cane and Table. 4905 Freret @ Upperline
Snake and Jake's Christmas Club Lounge is only a 'lounge' in name. This is a straight up bar open from 7pm to 7am. Seven ay em! Drinks are cheap, and the place has Christmas lights on year around. They boast their bar as 'your late night dive' and that is accurately named. I arrived at 130am and when I left at 5am it was twice as packed! 7612 Oak Street @ Hillary near Tulane. Streetcar stop is 5 semi-short stumbling blocks away!
Oak Street is famous on the River Bend area of the City for a couple things for sure. Before gigs, dig in for a New Orleans tradition at Jacques-Imo's - popular on the tourist circuit, so be prepared to wait for a little while. Always jammin' and a good spot to get a filling meal before heading into the Maple Leaf next door. 8324 Oak Street @ Cambronne
Maple Leaf Bar is known and made famous for the Rebirth Brass Band that play here every Tuesday night. Drinks are cheap and the place gets packed for the first set. Between sets and post-show, the ladies gather across the street with the ultimate assortment of local classics of red beans/rice, jambalaya, cobbler, etc. Get your fill here before taking the streetcar or taxi/Uber back into town.
8316 Oak Street @ Dante
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Maple Leaf - A Rare Sight if you are first one in at 4pm |
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Maple Leaf in Action |
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Rebirth @ The Maple Leaf Every Tuesday |
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3am across street from Maple Leaf - so good! |
Monday, June 19, 2017
The Marigny
The Marigny is my favorite District, as it is the confluence of the French Quarter, great music on Frenchmen Street, cool coffee shops and brunch spots where the River turns, and melding into the Bywater and the newly converted silo lofts. The colors of the gorgeous shotgun houses is perfect for a walking tour of this small yet historic region of the City.
Horn's is an institution in the District, not just for their incredible breakfasts - note that their pancakes and waffles are off the hook - order the Waffles Cochon (Pulled Pork + Chimichurri + Pickled Peppers piled high...yes please! - but their lunches, boozy milkshakes, Red Beans and Rice Mondays and Taco Tuesday are also perfect way to start the day, or evening. 1940 Dauphine @ Touro
One block away, Ruby Slipper has five locations within the City, but this one in the Marigny is my choice. Their version of Migas and Bananas Foster Pain Perdu (topped with bacon, of course) are enough reason to roll through! 2001 Burgundy @ Touro
Who Dat! Cafe boasts an incredible assortment of egg dishes, pastries and 'strong-as' coffee for your breakfast needs. Pick up some of their incredible jams and jellies to take home! 2401 Burgundy @ Mandeville
Just on the corner, The Orange Couch has the best coffee and pastries items on 'this' side of the French Quarter. Very cool and funky decor. And they have a Cortado on the menu, so they know their stuff. 2339 Royal Street @ Mandeville
New Orleans Cake Cafe is part bakery and part breakfast joint. Larger portions for not so large prices. Cookies, cakes and bagels also on offer. 2440 Chartres @ Spain
Frenchmen Street for music and art. All that one needs to know when it comes to the local music scene in the City. Yes, of course there is Preservation Hall, Tipitina's and the Howling Wolf, but the clubs on these three blocks - Maison, Blue Nile, the Spotted Cat, d.b.a., Snug Harbor, Apple Barrel, Cafe Negril can not be missed any night of any week. Don't miss the street brass every night at the corner of Frenchmen and Chartres. Frenchmen between Decatur and Royal.
Oh, and be aware of pop-up BBQ on the corner by Washington Square Park Frenchmen @ Royal. During Mardi Gras it was Mr. Joe's Island Grill. Ridiculous!
For original artwork, head to the Frenchmen Art Market in between gigs - open until 1am or midnight on Sundays. I have picked up some prints and framed them in my condo. A must for art buffs and memorabilia hunters alike - best to support the local artists! 619 Frenchmen Street @ Royal
Saint Roch Market has been revitalized and re-opened in 2015 as a food and beer hall that reminds me of a less expensive Ferry Plaza in San Francisco. Great breakfasts and coffee (get Coast Roast), lunch areas are packed. On NFL Sunday, Saints games are aired on a pull-down giant screen near the wine and oyster bar in the back. I mean, if you are into that kind of thing. Helpful and friendly staff!
2381 Saint Claude at Saint Roch. Take the new streetcar line there from Canal Street.
St. Coffee is another very good coffee spot towards the Bywater from the above Saint Roch Market. Open only until 5pm, this cool spot boasts excellent coffee and a gallery. Light meals and oh yeah, an incredible apple fritter! 2703 Saint Claude @ Port Street
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Doors of the Marigny |
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Typical Shotgun Flat on Royal Street - Marigny |
Horn's is an institution in the District, not just for their incredible breakfasts - note that their pancakes and waffles are off the hook - order the Waffles Cochon (Pulled Pork + Chimichurri + Pickled Peppers piled high...yes please! - but their lunches, boozy milkshakes, Red Beans and Rice Mondays and Taco Tuesday are also perfect way to start the day, or evening. 1940 Dauphine @ Touro
One block away, Ruby Slipper has five locations within the City, but this one in the Marigny is my choice. Their version of Migas and Bananas Foster Pain Perdu (topped with bacon, of course) are enough reason to roll through! 2001 Burgundy @ Touro
Who Dat! Cafe boasts an incredible assortment of egg dishes, pastries and 'strong-as' coffee for your breakfast needs. Pick up some of their incredible jams and jellies to take home! 2401 Burgundy @ Mandeville
Just on the corner, The Orange Couch has the best coffee and pastries items on 'this' side of the French Quarter. Very cool and funky decor. And they have a Cortado on the menu, so they know their stuff. 2339 Royal Street @ Mandeville
New Orleans Cake Cafe is part bakery and part breakfast joint. Larger portions for not so large prices. Cookies, cakes and bagels also on offer. 2440 Chartres @ Spain
Frenchmen Street for music and art. All that one needs to know when it comes to the local music scene in the City. Yes, of course there is Preservation Hall, Tipitina's and the Howling Wolf, but the clubs on these three blocks - Maison, Blue Nile, the Spotted Cat, d.b.a., Snug Harbor, Apple Barrel, Cafe Negril can not be missed any night of any week. Don't miss the street brass every night at the corner of Frenchmen and Chartres. Frenchmen between Decatur and Royal.
Oh, and be aware of pop-up BBQ on the corner by Washington Square Park Frenchmen @ Royal. During Mardi Gras it was Mr. Joe's Island Grill. Ridiculous!
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Get your Brisket here at Mr. Joe's |
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Bargains to be had on Frenchmen Street at lunchtime |
Saint Roch Market has been revitalized and re-opened in 2015 as a food and beer hall that reminds me of a less expensive Ferry Plaza in San Francisco. Great breakfasts and coffee (get Coast Roast), lunch areas are packed. On NFL Sunday, Saints games are aired on a pull-down giant screen near the wine and oyster bar in the back. I mean, if you are into that kind of thing. Helpful and friendly staff!
2381 Saint Claude at Saint Roch. Take the new streetcar line there from Canal Street.
St. Coffee is another very good coffee spot towards the Bywater from the above Saint Roch Market. Open only until 5pm, this cool spot boasts excellent coffee and a gallery. Light meals and oh yeah, an incredible apple fritter! 2703 Saint Claude @ Port Street
Garden District
Parasol's stakes their claim to the best Po' Boy in New Orleans and it is hard to argue with the Roast Beef version. No website available but the actual restaurant in up a couple steps past the dive bar front. This place is the unofficial capital of the Saint Patrick's Day parade through Irish Channel neighborhood. 2533 Constance @ Third Street
The Delachaise is a cute bar with tapas/small plates. They usually have a bottled beer special of the day for $5, need to ask about it as it isn't usually broadcast. 3442 St Charles @ Louisiana (on streetcar line)
The Columns Hotel is quintessential Garden District charm. Sit on the porch! Opens at 3pm usually but earlier during Mardi Gras. Great drinks including a lethal Vieux Carre served 'up'. Decent pub food and excellent for brunch. Lots of nooks and crannies in the bar/hotel, plus look into staying here for a couple nights and enjoy the views! 3811 St Charles just 4 short blocks from Louisiana (on streetcar line)
Commander's Palace is one of those places that require a reservation - and its an experience you won't ever forget! Go for brunch/lunch if you can as it will be less expensive, and you get the whole evening to do something else. No shorts or t-shirts admitted. Right across from Lafayette Cemetery, which is a great classic spot for everyone - locals and tourists alike. 1403 Washington Street near Saint Charles.
The Rum House is known for killer cocktails and some damn good tacos (jerk chicken, lamb vindaloo, etc). Open air spot, Caribbean vibe. 3128 Magazine @ 8th Street
Shaya is an amazing Israeli restaurant that won the James Beard award as best new restaurant in 2016 and has incredible food, cocktails. Brunch is spectacular. Hummus and the vegetarian dishes are amazing. Reservations required for a table, but space can be had at the bar for walk-ins. Corkage available for $20, or will waive if for special meal! 4213 Magazine near Napoleon
Ms. Mae's is 'famously' known as the cheapest bar in New Orleans, and is open 24 hours! A true dive bar, and interesting characters there morning/noon/night. Cash only! 4336 Magazine @ Napoleon
Creole Creamery is no joke when it comes to amazing ice cream and flavor choices. Written up as the best ice cream in Louisiana on Thrillist.com! If in doubt, go with the mini-scoop sampler and if you go with a friend, you can sample 10 different flavors! The Peanut Butter Fudge was my favorite. Yet to be tried yet is the Frozen Cappuccino - next time fo' sho'! 4924 Prytania @ Robert - take the Saint Charles Streetcar and get off at Robert or Bordeaux
Kenton's Food and Bourbon has a fabulous happy hour called 'Early Bourbon' from 3-6pm every day. Amazing cocktails and food for all mealtimes. Lane is the main bartender, so say hi and have him make you something 'bartender's choice'. 5757 Magazine past Jefferson near Audubon Park
The Rum House is known for killer cocktails and some damn good tacos (jerk chicken, lamb vindaloo, etc). Open air spot, Caribbean vibe. 3128 Magazine @ 8th Street
Shaya is an amazing Israeli restaurant that won the James Beard award as best new restaurant in 2016 and has incredible food, cocktails. Brunch is spectacular. Hummus and the vegetarian dishes are amazing. Reservations required for a table, but space can be had at the bar for walk-ins. Corkage available for $20, or will waive if for special meal! 4213 Magazine near Napoleon
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Appetizer Plate at Shaya with Harissa, Cabbage and Hazelnuts - Delish |
Creole Creamery is no joke when it comes to amazing ice cream and flavor choices. Written up as the best ice cream in Louisiana on Thrillist.com! If in doubt, go with the mini-scoop sampler and if you go with a friend, you can sample 10 different flavors! The Peanut Butter Fudge was my favorite. Yet to be tried yet is the Frozen Cappuccino - next time fo' sho'! 4924 Prytania @ Robert - take the Saint Charles Streetcar and get off at Robert or Bordeaux
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Creole Creamery - Enjoy! |
CBD and Lower Garden District
On the other side of the French Quarter Canal Street side is the Central Business District (CBD) which houses the Superdome, the Convention Center, Lafayette Square and some of the newer and funkier hotels in the City. I have combined the CBD and the Lower Garden District here.
The Saint Charles Streetcar runs from Canal Street all the way uptown, and costs a meager $1.25 for a ride. It is the way to see the Garden Districts and rolls 24 hours a day!
With the Roosevelt Hotel, you can find three separate institutions to locals and tourists alike. the Hotel itself is a classic early 1900s spot, so it is perfect to check it out on the way to the Sazerac Bar for the traditional New Orleans cocktail. I ended up validating the $15 price tag with tip by pinching the glass containing the logo. Pizza Domenica boasts the best pizza in all of NOLA. With all the other local food available, it is hard to sell me on pizza - but the 1/2 off their pies during the 3-5pm weekday happy hour is enticing enough to check it out. 130 Roosevelt Way @ Canal
(Note - Pizza Delicious in the Bywater is better and less crowded or try the pies at Paladar 511 see my notes in the Bywater section).
After or before your visit to the incredible WWII Museum, a visit to Cochon Butcher is required. Be prepared for Amazing sandwiches, strong cocktails and a huge lunchtime crowd. Also, the butcher has incredible tasso ham, jerky, sausage, jams, jellies and marinades to take home to make your own jambalaya! 930 Tchoupitoulas @ Andrew Higgins
The Tasting Room is the best wine bar in NOLA aside from Bacchanal in the Bywater. Good food menu and massive cheese/charcuterie boards! Wine list is extensive and the staff have impressive knowledge. Chill and comfy. 1906 Magazine Street @ Saint Mary
Magazine Street is an incredible street that reminds me a lot of Valencia Street in San Francisco - loaded with shops, cafes, bars and restaurants. The best shops in the Lower Garden District are between Camp and Philip Streets - check out the area on Magazine for top hats, feathers, Mardi Gras masks, candles etc. one shop is called Miette at 2038 Magazine which has accessories, candles, and cool clothes etc.
Juan's Flying Burrito has three locations but the one in the LGD is the original, thus the best. Cheap but fabulously good tacos, burritos with not your usual contents. Also, killer margaritas! A must stop during your shopping day. 2018 Magazine@ Josephine
District Donuts is known for ridiculous donuts, the best buttermilk drops (and a bargain at $1.50), biscuit sandwiches for breakfast, sliders (burgers/fried chicken) for the rest of the time. they even have a griddled donut sandwich called a 'Croquenut' - try one....The coffee is good as well. The place is well known - see the line out the do'? 2209 Magazine @ Jackson
Stein's Deli is right next door if the line is too long, or if you are taking a day off from District. Whatever Coffee is a kiosk right inside the door (open until 1pm and 2pm on weekends) and the deli is a Philly style bagelry and sandwich shop. Get the Stolzfus - scrambled eggs, pastrami, Swiss cheese for 9 bucks. 2209 Magazine @ Jackson
Hot Tin Bar, atop the Pontchartrain Hotel is a great rooftop bar with a Great Gatsby feel. Great views of the River, downtown, and of course Saint Charles Avenue for the Mardi Gras parades. 2031 Saint Charles @ Josephine
Bakery Bar. Holy sh*t - this place! Amazing brunch, cocktails and dessert items. See if you can get a doberge cake. 1179 Annunciation @ Calliope
French Truck Coffee with three locations now in New Orleans has probably the best brew in the city. I went to the location here and was reeled in my the decor and the general buzz about the place. And the baristas are professionals. 1200 Magazine Street @ Erato
Avenue Pub has some of the best local beer finds in the City with 40+ taps and upscale pub grub. Next block up is the Blind Pelican, a no frills bar with happy hour and oysters. AP is at 1732 St. Charles @ Polymnia and BP is 1628 St. Charles @ Euterpe
The Saint Charles Streetcar runs from Canal Street all the way uptown, and costs a meager $1.25 for a ride. It is the way to see the Garden Districts and rolls 24 hours a day!
With the Roosevelt Hotel, you can find three separate institutions to locals and tourists alike. the Hotel itself is a classic early 1900s spot, so it is perfect to check it out on the way to the Sazerac Bar for the traditional New Orleans cocktail. I ended up validating the $15 price tag with tip by pinching the glass containing the logo. Pizza Domenica boasts the best pizza in all of NOLA. With all the other local food available, it is hard to sell me on pizza - but the 1/2 off their pies during the 3-5pm weekday happy hour is enticing enough to check it out. 130 Roosevelt Way @ Canal
(Note - Pizza Delicious in the Bywater is better and less crowded or try the pies at Paladar 511 see my notes in the Bywater section).
After or before your visit to the incredible WWII Museum, a visit to Cochon Butcher is required. Be prepared for Amazing sandwiches, strong cocktails and a huge lunchtime crowd. Also, the butcher has incredible tasso ham, jerky, sausage, jams, jellies and marinades to take home to make your own jambalaya! 930 Tchoupitoulas @ Andrew Higgins
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Cubano, Rib Platter Special, Mac-n-Cheese at Cochon Butcher |
The Tasting Room is the best wine bar in NOLA aside from Bacchanal in the Bywater. Good food menu and massive cheese/charcuterie boards! Wine list is extensive and the staff have impressive knowledge. Chill and comfy. 1906 Magazine Street @ Saint Mary
Magazine Street is an incredible street that reminds me a lot of Valencia Street in San Francisco - loaded with shops, cafes, bars and restaurants. The best shops in the Lower Garden District are between Camp and Philip Streets - check out the area on Magazine for top hats, feathers, Mardi Gras masks, candles etc. one shop is called Miette at 2038 Magazine which has accessories, candles, and cool clothes etc.
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Magazine Street Shops |
Juan's Flying Burrito has three locations but the one in the LGD is the original, thus the best. Cheap but fabulously good tacos, burritos with not your usual contents. Also, killer margaritas! A must stop during your shopping day. 2018 Magazine@ Josephine
District Donuts is known for ridiculous donuts, the best buttermilk drops (and a bargain at $1.50), biscuit sandwiches for breakfast, sliders (burgers/fried chicken) for the rest of the time. they even have a griddled donut sandwich called a 'Croquenut' - try one....The coffee is good as well. The place is well known - see the line out the do'? 2209 Magazine @ Jackson
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Who Says Donut Making Isn't Passionate? |
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Delicious - not pictured, the incredible Cinnamon Roll |
Stein's Deli is right next door if the line is too long, or if you are taking a day off from District. Whatever Coffee is a kiosk right inside the door (open until 1pm and 2pm on weekends) and the deli is a Philly style bagelry and sandwich shop. Get the Stolzfus - scrambled eggs, pastrami, Swiss cheese for 9 bucks. 2209 Magazine @ Jackson
Hot Tin Bar, atop the Pontchartrain Hotel is a great rooftop bar with a Great Gatsby feel. Great views of the River, downtown, and of course Saint Charles Avenue for the Mardi Gras parades. 2031 Saint Charles @ Josephine
Bakery Bar. Holy sh*t - this place! Amazing brunch, cocktails and dessert items. See if you can get a doberge cake. 1179 Annunciation @ Calliope
French Truck Coffee with three locations now in New Orleans has probably the best brew in the city. I went to the location here and was reeled in my the decor and the general buzz about the place. And the baristas are professionals. 1200 Magazine Street @ Erato
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Uber Cool Coffee Joint - French Truck |
Avenue Pub has some of the best local beer finds in the City with 40+ taps and upscale pub grub. Next block up is the Blind Pelican, a no frills bar with happy hour and oysters. AP is at 1732 St. Charles @ Polymnia and BP is 1628 St. Charles @ Euterpe
The Bywater
The Bywater runs from the Industrial Canal to where it meets the Marigny around the railroad tracks that run perpendicular to the River. Finally in 2016, I took the 5 Marigny/Bywater bus out to The Joint. Ribs are fabulous, brisket perfectly cooked and the sausages to die for. The sides, not so much. Save room (if you can) for the peanut butter pie. Ridic! 701 Mazant @ Poland
From here, literally a block away is Bacchanal. The BBQ from The Joint just may waft through, but this place is all about the wine, cheese, charcuterie, cheese and live music. It is wine bar, store, music venue and restaurant rolled into one. 600 Poland Street.
The Joint - the ribs are ridiculously good! |
Front of the Joint - occasionally the 5 Bywater bus actually does stop out front |
Sometimes it’s good to get away from the New Orleans cuisine - and if you do, grab some great Italian food at Paladar 511. Best bolognese for the price I have had plus the pizzas are top notch. Vibe and people watching outstanding - and open on Mondays.
The Country Club is a place that I discovered during my visit in 2021. Great food and restaurant with a pool in the back. Yummy cocktails and beer available. Great as a relax and a break from your walking or on a hot day.
There are some other great watering holes nearby here, including Jack Dempsey's, Bar Redux, and of course music venue Vaughn's, made famous by trumpet man Kermit Ruffins. Old school dive bar, vibe that has a pot of red beans of rice in the bar of the bar available free for the patrons. As usual, during the gigs there will appear out of nowhere a BBQ Smoker outside - just bring your food in and watch the show! So typical New Orleans y'all!
800 Lesseps @ Dauphine
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Corey is a Thursday regular at Vaughn's |
Bar Redux - Creole Cuisine with Caribbean Vibe |
THIS place! No trip to the Bywater, or New Orleans for that matter would be complete without a trip to Elizabeth's. I have only been for brunch - the praline bacon is out of hand, as is the french toast burrito. What?? Dinner menu looks amazing as well. Be prepared to wait, with a cocktail of course. Stay awhile - you will want to...601 Gallier Street @ Chartres
Thursday, June 1, 2017
Katrina Aftermath
Lower Ninth Ward
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